January is a fitting time to get inventive with those tins you have in the kitchen cupboard: knock together a tonnato dip or an umami-rich chickpea salad, and some fried apple dumplings for afters

New year, new recipes, but a bit skint after Christmas … Time to raid the pantry! A dish based on the tins in your kitchen cupboard – tuna, chickpeas, anchovies, coconut milk, apples – doesn’t have to be overly basic, however. If we take “tinned” to include all those half-empty jars and bottles – the capers, mustards, oils and maple syrup – our aspirations for the new year (and the two-week-old new UK) can, perhaps, be embodied in our food. Making do with what we’ve got, reaching for those trusted tins, seeing them in a bit of a new light and, if we can, going on a few little local micro-adventures to seek out one or two specialist extras. 2021: alone, but together. Let’s do this thing!

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