Fermented vegetables add a delicious depth of flavour to this vegetarian dish of light, silken tofu and soy-soaked sprouts

Food, for me, is largely about the giving and receiving of pleasure, but we are, rightly, increasingly reminded that its fundamental role is to sustain us. As we learn about the damage ultra-processed foods wreak on our health (and the planet’s), we are also learning about “beneficial” foods to eat. And so to fermentation, an ancient preservation method that happens to be brilliant at stimulating and feeding our good gut bacteria. Chocolate, cheese, wine, kimchi, vinegars, coffee … it’s a happy coincidence, then, that their slowly developed flavours taste quite so good.

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