A celebratory slowed-cooked pork shoulder, porcini and juniper berry pot roast with herby roast potatoes and chestnutty cabbage on the side

There are two emporiums in Testaccio. One is ancient, and in ruins. The other is a shop, not much larger than an emperor-sized double bed, just off the main piazza. The ancient L’Emporio, built between 193 BC and 174 BC, was a river port where goods from all over the globe (Empire), notably olive oil from Hispania Baetica, Libya and Turkey; and durum wheat from North Africa, Egypt and Sicily, were docked, unloaded and moved into storage. Excavated remains of both the port and warehouses punctuate Testaccio nonchalantly; a colossal arch butting up against a 19th-century block of flats here, a section of quay there.

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