Recreating the peanut butter stew she enjoyed in Accra brings the flavours of west Africa to wintry London for this food writer

My definition of home has often boiled down to a place where I feel I don’t stand out. When I first landed in Ghana, the jovial warmth with which I was greeted emphasised my failure at passing for local, but I felt I belonged.

I had the privilege of being guided around the most vibrant corners of Accra by a close friend, Deborah, who had been on the same course as me at university in London and had recently returned to Ghana, where she was starting a new journey as an artist. Until then my experience of Ghana had been limited to the food from a small shop in Brixton market, where I tried waakye – rice and beans – and shito – a hot pepper sauce made with dried fish, prawns, onions, chilli, garlic, and spices. Deborah showed me her native city as a local.

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